Embroidery method and fabrication



Aug.2, 1932.

J. 5. MARzAK EMBROIDERY METHOD AND FABRICATION Filed Jan. 21, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet l Aug.2, 1932. 5 MARZAK 1,869,386

L EMBROIDERY METHOD AND FABRICATION Filed Jan. 21, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Aug. 2, 19 32 S EATF.

PATENE tries i JOSEPH S. MARZAK, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND, ASSIGNOR TO LION BROTHERS COM- PANY, INC OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND, A CORPORATION OF M'AEYLAND EMBROIDERY YIMETHOD, AND FABRrcATION Application filed January 21,1932. Serial No. 587,927.

The invention relates to an embroidery method and to a fabric or fabrication of embroidery to be formed on a garment or other article or piece of cloth. The fabrication of embroidery is so formed according to the of the cloth -may be weakened or removed,

the object being to so construct and fabri-' cate the embroidered pattern or area that'it is self sustaining whereby it is adapted to 7' retain the contour and appearance of the del sign even though portions of the cloth arethus removed, disassociated or weakened. I The fabric of theinvent on consists of a series of knots or un ts arranged in a suitable 7, pattern or design and held in the arrangement by foundation and/or peripheral stitching as hereinafter more fully described.

In the practice of the method of the inven- Figure 3 shows the preferred type of stitchtion in the preferred form the cloth is first stitched forming a pattern or foundation corresponding in arrangement to the preferred design and in proportions or spacing to the size and proportions of the units,

elements or knots of the thread or yarn of which the embroidered pattern is to be.

39 formed. The units, knots or elements of the design are connected together by the stitched foundation and as a final step the stitches forming each such knot or unit which are more or less diametrically arranged so that they radiate from an approximate center, are preferably stitched together at their outer ends forming each knot or unit into a more definite shape, the units or knots of the design being so connectedtogether by the foun dation stitching as to form the design into an integral self supporting fabric which retains its shape and appearance independently of the cloth to which it is attached, and in which the stitches were formed in producing the embroidered pattern or'fabric.

In'the accompanying drawings I haveillu'strated the method of the invention together with an embroidery fabric in a plurality of forms and in various stages of production'in accordance with-the invention.

In the drawings: 7

Figure 1 is a plan view showing the embroideredfabric onan enlarged scale in the preferred form.

Figure 2 is a plan of a suitablegroundwork or foundation stitching for the fabric. Figure Bis a plan showing the foundation stitching in the preliminary stages of production'showing what may be termed the first step in one form of the invention. 7

Figure 4 shows the embroidery fabric or design approachingcompletion, a portion of the knots or elements of the design having been stitched into or through the cloth over the foundation, the stitching at the edges of r the knots or units not having been so applied. F igure 5 on a still larger scale shows one of the square knots, units or elements of the design in the course of construction, and it also shows fragmentarily the foundation stitching underlying the same. 7

Figure 6 which is a section on line 6, 6 in ing used in forming the foundation pattern. Figure 7 which is a section on, the line 7, 7 in Figure 10, shows one of the embroidered units or knots in elevation.

Figure 8 is a plan showing a pattern particularly adapted to use with the round knots or'units. Figure 9 is plan showing the embroidery fabric or design having round knots or units partially completed. Figure-10 shows an embroidery fabric completed. It is composed of round knots or units. 7

Figure llis a view corresponding to Figure 5 showing on a large scale a circular knot or unit'in' plan partially completed, and in connection with a fragment of the foundation design. 7

Referring to the drawings by numerals reach ofwhich is used to indicate the same or similar parts in the different figures, and referring particularly to the construction shown in Figuresl to &, themethod which is the subj'ectof the invention consists in first forming by meansof lines .of stitching extending through the cloth base a foundation for the fabric or fabrication of embroidery. This square.

foundation stitching, while it may be otherwise arranged, in the form of the invention shown, in Figures 1 and 4, in which the knots or units are square or rectangular, consists in an initial pattern 1, composed of two se ries of parallel lines of stitching 2 and 3,

at right angles to each other and spaced apart by a distance corresponding to the diameter of the units or knots which are indicated by reference character 4. While the stitching' may be of any preferred type,the type of embroidery stitching 5 illustratedrin Figure 6 which is produced by a well known type'of embroidery machine, is preferred for both the foundation and the knots.

In this type of stitching, two threads 6 and 7 are arranged on opposite sides of the cloth or base 8. These are crossed at suitable intervals and passed through the cloth 8 at suitably spaced points 15, which in the form of the invention shown in Figures 1 to 4, are located at the points of intersection of the lines of stitching 2 and 3.

In addition to the initial foundation stitching 1, the fabric or fabrication of embroidery shown in Figures 1 to 4, includes a second series of lines of foundation stitching 9 shown in Figures 2 and 4, as consisting of two sets of substantially parallel lines of stitching 10 and 11, arranged diagonally, i. e., on an incline as to the rectangular lines 2 and 3, and preferably passing through or near the points of intersection 12 of the rectangular lines of stitching 2 and 3. This second series of foundation stitches in the form of the invention shown terminates outside the square or main figure, 14, formed by the lines of stitching 2 and 3, the ends of these lines being spaced outwardly therefrom by half the distance between the intersections 12. Both the initial series of foundation stitches 1 and the secondary series of foundation. stitches 9 as thus arranged and taken separately form by their intersection a series or network of small rectangles, the diameter of each of which is the distance bet-ween the respective intersections.

In the form of embroidered fabric shown in Figures 1 to 5, the fabric or pattern may consist of a series of square or similar knots or units 4 as shown partially completed in Figures 4 and 5, and in the final form in Figure 1. These knots or square units 4 are in the preferred form of the invention illustrated, produced by means of the type of stitching shown at 5 in Figure 6 or any suitable type of stitching. The stitches are preferably passed through the cloth at the periphery and crossed near the center of the In the arrangement shown, the threads 6 and 7 are crossed and passed through the cloth as indicated at 15 in Figure 6. This crossing may occur at the edges of each square, see Figure 5 at reference character 17, and the threads thus crossed when they pass through the cloth are passed back and forth across the square. All these diametrical threads also preferably cross each other on each side of the cloth 8, at an approxi mate center indicated in Figure 5 by reference character 16. In this way the square knots or units as best illustrated at 4 in Figures 1 and 4 are formed. The centers of these squares may be located at or near the intersections 18 of the diagonal and initial lines of foundation stitching 9.

To complete the fabric or fabrication of embroidery illustrated in Figures 1 to 4, the diametrical stitches or threads 19 composing each respective square unit or knot 4 are con" nected by lines of stitching 20, see Figure 1, which is preferably of the type 5, illustrated in Figure 6, although all of this stitching may be of any convenient type, and while these lines of stitching as shown bind the adjacent edges only of square units or knots 4, they may be otherwise arranged to meet the conditions presented.

For purposes of illustration a plurality of patterns, or more particularly, types of fabric or fabrication of embroidery, one having the round and the other having circular units or knots, have been illustrated.

Figures 7 to 11 relate to the type having the circular knots, it being understood that any preferred shape of unit or knot may be adopted within the scope of the invention.

Figure 8 illustrates a pattern of foundation stitching which is regarded as particularly well adapted as a means for connecting the circular or similar knots or units 21 to form a continuous fabric or fabrication of embroidery. In the preparation of this foundation stitching 22, the type of stitch illustrated in Figure 6 is preferably used. In this instance the foundation stitching consists of a series of parallel lines of stitching 24 spaced apart to correspond to the diameter of the circular knots 21, and this pattern or foundation stitching 22 is completed in the form shown by the provision of two sets of lines of stitching 25 and 26, each crossing the lines'24 in the form of the invention shown at an opposite angle of 60 degrees so that the three respective sets of lines of stitching 24, 25 and 26, intersect at a series of centers 27 which are chosen as the centers of the circular or similar knots or units 21 which are thus connected to form an integral fabric or fabrication of embroidery by these lines of stitching 24, 25 and 26. The circular knots or units 21, while they may be formed in any suitable manner, are preferably formed as are the squares 4 by a series of diametrically arranged stitches 28 which are crossed at an approximate centerat 29, and are passed through the fabric at convenient points on the periphery of the circular knots at 30, the stitches being preferably of ,the

type illustrated in Figure .6. The points '30 i at the periphery may correspond to and con stitute the crossing of the threads where they pass through the cloth 8 at 17, Figure 5.

To complete the integral fabric or fabrication of embroidery in the formshown in Figures 7 to 11, and to make it completely self sustaining and supporting so that disintegration, weakening or removal of portions of the cloth, if it should occur, would not injure or interfere with the design, the stitches forming the circular knots or units are connected at the periphery by circular support a series of knots of square or circular or other suitable outline which may in the preferred form be composed of diametrically arranged stitching or lines of stitching, crossing at an approximate center. These may in the preferred form be connected at their outer ends by peripherally arranged lines of stitching which may serve to connect a series of the units or knots of which the fabric consists. It is of particular interest that the stitches comprising the knots or part of them are thus interlocked with part of the stitches composing the corresponding lines of stitching.

I have thus described a method of making an integral fabric or fabrication of embroidery and the article thus produced, both of which separately combined constitute the invention, the description being specific and in detail in order that the method and the article of the invention and the manner of applying,

in conformance with the size of'the units, the i lines of said respective series intersecting at intervals, and forming said units overlying the foundation by utilizing the spaced intersections of the lines of stitching composing the foundation as approximate centers and forming each unit or knot of a number of stitches crossing near the approximate center and piercing the cloth at the periphery of the unit, portionsof stitching composing the respective knots being interlocked with the corresponding lines of stitching. I

2. The method of producing a fabrication ofembroidery comprising a series of closely associated units 'or knots which consists in forming a foundation pattern by stitching a piece of cloth or other supporting fabric providing a plurality of lines of stitching spaced in conformance with the size of the units and intersecting at intervals, and forming said units overlying the foundation by utilizing the uniformly spaced intersections of the lines of stitching composing the foundation as approximate centers and providing for each unit a series of transverse stitches crossing near an approximate center and piercing the cloth at the periphery of the unit, and V completing the units by lines of stitching extending along the periphery of each unit and connecting the ends of the transverse stitches, portions of stitches composing the respective knots being interlocked with the corresponding lines of stitching.

3. A fabrication of embroidery comprising a foundation consisting of a plurality of series of parallel lines of stitching engaging and passing through a piece of cloth which serves as a base, the lines of the respective series intersecting to form approximate centers, the surface of the embroidered fabric consisting of a series of knots the respective knots being composed of diametrically arranged lines of stitching crossing at an approximate center and piercing the cloth at the periphery of the knot, and lines of stitching connecting the ends of the stitches of each knot and extending along the periphery of the respective knots whereby the fabric is made integral and self supporting, portions of stitching. composing the respective knots being interlocked with the corresponding lines of stitching.

4. A fabrication of embroidery comprising a foundation consisting of a plurality oflines of stitches andunits or knots arranged in accordance witha design, the lines of thestitching intersecting at intervals corresponding to the size ofth e knots, each knot consisting of a number of stitches engaging the cloth at predetermined points to be occupied by the periphery of the knot and extending transyersely thereof, the stitches of each knot being nterlocked with corresponding lines of stitching.

' 5. The method of producing a fabrication of embroidery comprising a design composed of a series of closely associated units or knots which consists of forming a foundation for said design by stitching a piece of cloth which serves as a base, providing a plurality of lines of stitching in general conformance with said design and forming said units or knots to overlie said lines of foundation stitchings, each knot consisting of a number of stitches engaged with the cloth at predetermined point-s, said stitches extending transversely of the space to be occupied by the unit or knot, portions of the stitching composing the respective units or knots being interlocked With the corresponding lines of stitching.

10 Signed by me at Baltimore, Maryland, this 19th day of J anuary, 1932. v

JOSEPH S. MARZAK. 

